History of the Parka Jacket

 

The parka (or Anorak I should say) is known for its heavy weight, big hood, drawstrings and fur lining.

Originally invented by the Eskimo people from the Arctic region, the parka jacket has become a very desirable fashion item found in wardrobes of many as an essential winter garment.   

It didn't appear in England until 1924, eventually being made from nylon and then poplin (a rich luxury fabric) in 1959 where it finally featured in Vogue. It was then, that the parka jacket became a desirable fashion item.

 

Then there was the “fishtail parka” which was first used by the United States Army in 1951. This particular parka was known for the back being longer than the front (hence why it was called fishtail).

By the 1960s the fishtail parka jacket was a prime symbol for the mod-subculture. Due to the fact that it was affordable, very available and practical, it was seen as the ideal jacket to protect the smarter clothes worn underneath.     

 

Overall I would say that doing this project has helped me in a great deal to gain a better understanding of fashion terminology and how garments are constructed to perform well to their chosen purpose. I would also like to say that the parka jacket is a flexible item as it can be worn on many different things. Plus it never fails it purpose to keep warm in the winter making it a sought-after winter essential.     

  

  



New Flat Darwings

 

The final part of this project involves me changing the design of the jacket to make it look better. With this in mind I decided to change the top pocket into two welted zip pockets, and the bottom ones into patch pockets with a flap and a press stud to fasten it. Instead of bottons I used press studs as well as the zip remaining in the same place.

 

For the hood I have decided to include a fur trim around the edge of the hood. This is to make it have more of a Parka jacket look.
After looking at a variety of trims I decided to go with the white. This would obviously be fake fur.  Istead of the hood lining being made from polyester, I have changed this to a white fleece linning which should make the hood more insulating and comfortable.


So for the jacket, I have decided to go with a more lighter and unsually shade of beige, made from cotton and polyester. I think that this would be more suitable for the outter layer polyester is less absorbant than cotton, meaning that it won't soak up alot of rain water.
Comparing to the old design to the new flat drawing I have alsoadded a fur trim to the edge of the hood to give it more of a parka look. 

In changing the trousers, I raised the waist line so it has become a high waist trouser. I also made the leg slimer. By changing the design this way I believe that it will be a more attractive item for spring and summer, hence why I changed the colour from black to creame and also included florar patterns.

For the trousers I have decided to go for a more spring time summery look. I will be using cotton fabric this time. After looking at different garments with various patterns I decided to play with patterns in my new design. The floral fabric will be used for the back pockets and waistband. There will be golden brown buttons on the back pockets however this will for decoration. For fastenings I will still use a zip but bottons will be used for on the front of the garment.

 



Flat Drawings

 

Original Flat Drawings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Deconstructing Hood

 

With the hood there were buttons and buttons holes to help aadjust the tightness.

 

 

 Hood front and back

 

 

 Deconstructing the hood I found that there are 3 layers.There is the jacket made from the cotton. Followed by this the lining made from nylon, in between these fabrics is the padding. The padding is attatched to the lining. With the padding, this creates insulation making it warm and comfortable.

 

 

Hood lining and padding 

Deconstructing Jacket

 

Deconstructing - Lining

To start I started with removing the lining of the sleeves.

 

 

In removing the sleeve lining I also found that the padding was also attatched to the polyester (nylon). This is to create warmth, however the polyester is sewn to the padding as this is the inner part of the jacket so that it makes it easier to remove. 



Sleeve, right and left front pieces and the centre back.

After removing the sleeves, the right and left front of the jacket are taken apart, and padding is put along the fastening band where the zip is fixed.

 

Different seams within jacket  

There are various types of seams, which includes open seams which are flat and open compared to close seams. Over-looking which is also seen in the trousers is to stop seams from fraying.

Looking at the deconstruction of the sleeve I found places that were interfaced with padding. For instance the edge of the sleeve as this is where the button is sewn. Even behind the button hole on the other side of the fabric you can see interfacing where it is stitched down on the left bottom image.

 

The front of the of the pocket is actaully part of the front piece of the jacket, making it an inserted pocket. This means that lining is needed in order for there to be a pocket.

 

 

The top pocket on the left is a patch pocket.

 

Deconstruction of Zip

The zip is a standard heavy one as it as to be strong to suit the function of the jacket. The garment piece in which the zip is sewn to is called the fastening band. The small metal hole which the drawstring is pulled through is called a grommet. Metal or plastic is usually used for this hole to prevent tearing.

 

Fashion Terminology

 

Different Seams, Stitches and features  

On the top left we have a dart in a jacket which helps define the figure of the jacket.

The next picture is of a vest top which also contain darts however they are inside out,  this creates the detail on the front. Buttons are also used as a decoration feature instead of a fastening.

below the jacket we have a white top, where at the back you'll find gathers on the back yoke.

Finally I saw a summery red and white top which had a ruffle detail aroung the neckline. Having the ruffle details makes it more feminine.  

There were other features which are was drawn to that I would also like to share. For example the top on the top right where the buttons are use as decoration rather than a fastening. In the image below this we have a t-shirt which only has the flap of a pocket as decoration; buttons are used here again.

 

Trims and finishes

 

 

Trims I are saw were ruffle trims.







Another neat way to hem a garment, especially with transparent fabrics is using a couture hem.






Cord is  used for cord trims

                              

           
Feather trim











Fringe trim, used on various garments.

Fur trim

 

 

Looking at these jackets, one coming from bhs, I think that the fur trim around the neckline and hood is a great compliment to the parka jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   Fabric and detail

 

There were also different fabrics that I was interested to find out about.

As Spring is rolling in there are a varity of colours and fabrics gaining their way into street fashion stores. In Newlook I was able to find embroidered insertion fabric on the bottom right. This is ideal fabric for spring and summer as its detail is suttle yet eye-catching. This is the same of as the bridging lace in the photo on the bottom left.  

Looking at these trousers, there are different features which I could use to help me alter my own design. For instance the darts on the pink tapered trousers. It's also made from linen and cotton, which I believe are ideal fabrics for spring and summer.

 

Different Trouser rises   

 

This image describes depending on the body shape, the best type of trousers to obtain the best fit. I believe that this should be taken into consideration, when designing as, as it isn't just about creating something that looks trendy and cool but creating something that is comfortable besides the benefiting factor of it looking fashionable.

Different types of Collars

 

 



Pockets and Fastenings

 

 

 Inserted Pockets

Taken from a pattern book, these illustrations show different types of collars and patterns. For instance the Wing Collar Placket and Pointed Placket (with facing)

In the pictures on the right we have Inserted Pockets. These pockets are not as noticable as the patch and welted pocket, however I believe that this makes the garment more fashionable and comfortable to wear.   

Accordion Pocket Patch                     Pocket Patch Pocket   

Jetted Pockets

Jetted Pockets are usually found on suits and jackets.

 

Welted Pockets

 Welted pockets are usually found on troousers. These are the same type of pockets on the back of my trousers.  

Zip Welted Pocket

 

 

 

 

Different types of pocket designs 

 

 Press Stud (Poppers) and Draw String

         

 

Press studs are simple and easy to do and undo; making the suitable for jackets, plus they are strong and firm.



Zips

 

Zips are a well known fastening as they are easy to operate, however there are different types made for different fucntions. For instance your standard zip used for jackets, trousers, jeans, shoes etc. 

There are other types such as the invisible zip on the far end on the right. This is used for formal clothing where designers desire the zip to be unseen so it does interupt the appearance of the garment.  

                  Hook and eye                      Velcro (Hoop and Loop tape)   

                         

Hook and eye fastening can be found in a variety of garments (usually formal wear), this is because of its small size so it can be easily hidden in a garment so the fastening can not be seen.

Hook and eyes are suitable for suit jackets, skirts and trousers; plus come in different shapes and sizes.

 

Velcro is another popular fastening mostly used in shoes and coats because of its effortless and convenience making it quick and easy. More likely to be used for children wear.