Fashion Terminology

 

Different Seams, Stitches and features  

On the top left we have a dart in a jacket which helps define the figure of the jacket.

The next picture is of a vest top which also contain darts however they are inside out,  this creates the detail on the front. Buttons are also used as a decoration feature instead of a fastening.

below the jacket we have a white top, where at the back you'll find gathers on the back yoke.

Finally I saw a summery red and white top which had a ruffle detail aroung the neckline. Having the ruffle details makes it more feminine.  

There were other features which are was drawn to that I would also like to share. For example the top on the top right where the buttons are use as decoration rather than a fastening. In the image below this we have a t-shirt which only has the flap of a pocket as decoration; buttons are used here again.

 

Trims and finishes

 

 

Trims I are saw were ruffle trims.







Another neat way to hem a garment, especially with transparent fabrics is using a couture hem.






Cord is  used for cord trims

                              

           
Feather trim











Fringe trim, used on various garments.

Fur trim

 

 

Looking at these jackets, one coming from bhs, I think that the fur trim around the neckline and hood is a great compliment to the parka jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   Fabric and detail

 

There were also different fabrics that I was interested to find out about.

As Spring is rolling in there are a varity of colours and fabrics gaining their way into street fashion stores. In Newlook I was able to find embroidered insertion fabric on the bottom right. This is ideal fabric for spring and summer as its detail is suttle yet eye-catching. This is the same of as the bridging lace in the photo on the bottom left.  

Looking at these trousers, there are different features which I could use to help me alter my own design. For instance the darts on the pink tapered trousers. It's also made from linen and cotton, which I believe are ideal fabrics for spring and summer.

 

Different Trouser rises   

 

This image describes depending on the body shape, the best type of trousers to obtain the best fit. I believe that this should be taken into consideration, when designing as, as it isn't just about creating something that looks trendy and cool but creating something that is comfortable besides the benefiting factor of it looking fashionable.

Different types of Collars

 

 



Pockets and Fastenings

 

 

 Inserted Pockets

Taken from a pattern book, these illustrations show different types of collars and patterns. For instance the Wing Collar Placket and Pointed Placket (with facing)

In the pictures on the right we have Inserted Pockets. These pockets are not as noticable as the patch and welted pocket, however I believe that this makes the garment more fashionable and comfortable to wear.   

Accordion Pocket Patch                     Pocket Patch Pocket   

Jetted Pockets

Jetted Pockets are usually found on suits and jackets.

 

Welted Pockets

 Welted pockets are usually found on troousers. These are the same type of pockets on the back of my trousers.  

Zip Welted Pocket

 

 

 

 

Different types of pocket designs 

 

 Press Stud (Poppers) and Draw String

         

 

Press studs are simple and easy to do and undo; making the suitable for jackets, plus they are strong and firm.



Zips

 

Zips are a well known fastening as they are easy to operate, however there are different types made for different fucntions. For instance your standard zip used for jackets, trousers, jeans, shoes etc. 

There are other types such as the invisible zip on the far end on the right. This is used for formal clothing where designers desire the zip to be unseen so it does interupt the appearance of the garment.  

                  Hook and eye                      Velcro (Hoop and Loop tape)   

                         

Hook and eye fastening can be found in a variety of garments (usually formal wear), this is because of its small size so it can be easily hidden in a garment so the fastening can not be seen.

Hook and eyes are suitable for suit jackets, skirts and trousers; plus come in different shapes and sizes.

 

Velcro is another popular fastening mostly used in shoes and coats because of its effortless and convenience making it quick and easy. More likely to be used for children wear.        

Deconstructing Trousers

 

 



  Unpicking the hem was my starting point of the deconstruction process. 

  This revealed the over-locking stitch along the edge of trouser

 Unpicking the waistline I was able to uncover the interfaced lining of the waistline, which is done to give the fabric strenght as a lot of tension is put on the area of the garment.

 

 

  

The next step was removing the belt loops followed by taking apart the back right leg and left leg.

What I uncovered from here was the different seams and stitches that are used in various parts of the garment. 



 



Taking apart waistline I found pipping that was used as decoration.

Taking apart the waistline lining.  

 

Hook and eye fastening, (the hook part)

 





 

From the

DKNY Fall/Winter 2013-2014 New York

 

 

 

 

 What I found eye-catching about this collection was seeing how each garment carried a strong, young hip street influnce down the runway in New York. One of the most inspiring fashion shows I've seen during fashion week.

However what I also notice of the different styles of jactets as well as patterns and features which were found on them. For instance the big pockets which are on both sides of the jackets as well as the quilting pattern on the leather and nylon. This may influence me to enlarge the size of the pockets on my jacket.


Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2013

 

 

 

From the Giorgio Armani Privé  Haunte Couture Spring/Summer 2013 Paris

 

Again we see the black trousers that have a beatiful glossy appearance, as well as a slim fitted look giving the wearer a stylish sophisitcated look.